3 weeks in, we continue to be amazed by the warm spirit of the indonesian people. from taxi drivers, restaurant owners to guys in the line-up, there is a unique love of life here in indonesia.
we spent a few days near uluwatu. the swell was pumping and i did my best to take on "impossibles" with my 9'2" single fin. truly a leg-burning left, i got some of the longest and fastest backs-side waves of my life. the photos are from our perch at Rock N Reef hotel, check it out if you want a VIP view of this stretch of reef.
Backside on a traditional single fin in this kind of surf is pretty tricky, but nothing about Tyler Surfboards is truly traditional. The double concave vee and knifey rails really worked well on the speed sections - the board took a fast, high line. As surfing goes, right when i started feeling a bit confident, i got caught up with my board in the white water and re-arranged my schnozola via board smack.
I've been meaning to get in and fix my deviated septum and i think i may have accomplished it minus the costly US medical bills. we'll see how it heals up.
looking to find a right that offers up a nose-ride section, so my nose, can ride a little more safely!